What makes Trogir so special, why is this little town such a magnet for tourists? A local will tell you all about it in our detailed guide of the place, a text in which you can find out all about Trogir’s immense cultural heritage. The main sights, best places to eat, even the most popular beaches – everything’s there! Naturally, you can also rent a boat, set up a boat transfer or go on a tour of the islands close to Trogir. Read everything here and you will be one step closer to an unfogettable vacation.
THE ULTIMATE TROGIR GUIDE
(written by a local)
Trogir is small in size but huge in terms of culture and sights, plus it has a number of excellent beaches where you can thoroughly enjoy the Adriatic. Because of that and thanks to its vicinity to a large airport, not to mention the fact that there are islands nearby which you can easily visit by boat, it is a perfect place for your summer vacation.
But that’s just the beginning of it. There are so many layers to this charming little town, and I will try to introduce you to most of them in the rest of this article. Trogir is a fantastic example of a small Mediterranean town and everything that goes along with that – open and welcoming locals, great food, lovely and relaxing nature, interesting traditions… You can really get the full package here. On top of that, there are so many interesting sights you can visit, and you will get all the info about them in this article, of course.
Of course, I will share some useful advice that can help you out while you’re in Trogir because the place has a lot of unique aspects and quirks. It is because of these very quirks that you’ll fall in love with the town and its residents, so let’s get started. You’ve come to the best place to learn everything you need to know about this town.
What’s the weather like in Trogir?
Trogir is quite close to Split, so if you have read our Ultimate Split Guide, you probably have a pretty good idea what to expect in terms of weather here. The Mediterranean climate brings hot and fairly dry summers which are also peak season in the town (especially July and August), so expect higher rates during that period too. Still, this is a great time to visit if you want to enjoy everything the sea has to offer, especially if you want to rent a boat and just relax at the sea a bit.
But, frankly, I’ll take September over the two aforementioned months every time. It’s still quite warm, especially in the first half of the month, so you can still hit the beach, but there are much fewer tourists mingling around. Therefore, you will be able to relax and enjoy the place much more thoroughly.
Also, I always say to my friends that spending winter holidays in this part of Croatia (the region is called Dalmatia) is something much more people should consider. Sure, it gets chilly, but the temperatures are still quite high compared to areas further north, and you can spend some very pleasant days outside if the weather is good. Also, since there are virtually no tourists, you have the town to yourself and there is something quite magical in listening to your step echo along empty cobblestone streets that have stood there for centuries.
Finally, spring is also a great choice to visit due to its warm and pleasant weather and the fact that everybody is outside. The old town comes alive with people hanging around and drinking coffee in the town’s center, so you can just feel the life coming back to Trogir after the winter. Easter marks the start of that period.
What to do in Trogir?
Croatia’s coast is historically and culturally immensely rich, and Trogir is no exception. Each century has left its mark on the town in some way, but we will discuss the sights in greater detail later in this guide. In short, if you want to spend your day just walking around and exploring, you can certainly do so – you will certainly discover plenty of amazing things in the process.
But apart from that, there are many more activities you can do, and diving is among the best ones. You see, nearby islands Šolta and Čiovo are teeming with excellent diving places and diverse marine life, so if you’re a snorkeling/diving fan, you’ve just hit the jackpot. Colorful coral, octopuses, seahorses… there is a lot to see down there!
Mind you, Šolta and Čiovo are fairly close to the town, and the waters in front of Trogir are ideal for a nice relaxing cruise. Just rent a boat and get going because the beaches you can reach this way are stunning, and there are so many other beautiful places to discover that you’ll be busy for days.
If you’re a car fan, rent a car if you don’t have one with you and hit the roads above the town. When you get to the top, the view will be absolutely spectacular, but be aware that it can get pretty crowded up there. Still, with all those twists and turns and that lovely view, you will quickly realize why many big car companies shoot commercials here.
And since it’s not that far, you can always head to Split, Croatia’s largest coastal city. Trogir is connected to it by buses, but choose to go with a car if you can – it’s much faster and more comfortable. Split also has plenty to offer in terms of architecture, since it grew around a palace that belonged to a real Roman emperor, no less! It’s a great destination for a day trip, and, as mentioned before, we have a comprehensive guide to Split to help you find your way around.
Finally, don’t be afraid to explore the area around Trogir. It is full of wonderful little places where you can get away from the crowd and enjoy some peace and quiet. Of course, I’ll cover some of those places in the rest of the article, but we have more things to do. Next up – the best things to see in Trogir.
What to see in Trogir?
The history of this town is incredibly impressive because it was founded way back in the third century BC. Not by the Romans, mind you, but by the Greeks! And I’m just getting started. Trogir is also considered to be the best-preserved town from the Romanesque and Gothic periods in central Europe, and its whole historic center is under UNESCO’s protection. Therefore, most of the entries on this list will be from that area, and you will certainly have plenty of things to see in Trogir, no doubt about that. Here are the most important sights.
The best way to enter the old town is through north gates, also known as porta terrae fermae. It is an example of architecture from the late Renaissance with a sculpture of St. John, the patron saint of Trogir, at the top. Go through, step onto the cobblestoned streets, and you will be taken back centuries. The main square and all other main attractions are very close by, and you will immediately see why this town is so revered for its architecture.
On the other side of the old town, the southern gate (porta civitatis) looks even better if you ask me because the walls are clearly visible and really give you a great feeling of a fortified city. Furthermore, on the inside is a place called Loggia, which used to be a place where travelers could rest if they found themselves inside when the doors closed. Today, however, this is a wonderful gallery with some fantastic artwork and a great place to pick up a souvenir or two.
Many will say that this is the most beautiful feat of architecture not just in Croatia but beyond. No wonder, since it took more than 300 years for it to get its final form! There is so much to see here that I don’t know where to start. Certainly, Radovan’s portal, the main entrance to the cathedral, is probably the most important thing to see, but there’s also the Chapel of Saint John, a fascinating example of Renaissance art. The cathedral even has its own pinacotheca which many consider to be an obligatory stop on a visit here. Oh, and do go and climb the tower, the view from up there is just spectacular.
I could go on like this for quite some time, but honestly, it doesn’t do this church any justice. Make it a priority to see this and you won’t regret it. On top of that, the town’s main square is right below it, and it’s quite a wonderful experience to sit down and have a drink there surrounded by centuries-old stone buildings. No matter when you come here, day or night, you’ll love it.
The Ćipiko Palace
Once you’re done with the cathedral, proceed to the Ćipiko Palace, a sight that will be very close to you, right across the main square. This is one of Trogir’s symbols and used to belong to the Ćipikos, one of the most prominent families in the region. In reality, the palace is a fusion of several buildings which came together as the family’s wealth expanded. Most of the palace dates back to the 13th century, but in the 15th century, the palace received a major overhaul by some of the greatest artists and architects of the time.
Today, many interesting details still remain visible, such as the Venetian Gothic window, fascinating reliefs, details from the Gothic period and more. Personally, I love the wooden rooster that was taken by a family member who served in the navy following a victory over the Ottoman fleet at the battle of Lepant.
Town Hall AKA the Duke’s Palace
Still on the main square. What is today the town hall is actually a building that was built all the way back in the 13th century. It was thoroughly reconstructed at the end of the 19th century, an endeavor that is responsible for its restored Renaissance look. The building is adorned with coats of arms of various influential noble families who were actually allowed in (common people couldn’t enter the building until the mid-19th century). The clock tower outside only adds to the charm.
This is another place that can show you all the intricacies of 15th-century architecture. A monumental staircase, a Gothic courtyard, winged lions of Venice… There are many fascinating details on the building, so spare some time for it too. It certainly deserves that.
Convent of St. Nicholas
Founded in 1064, this convent is still home to Benedictines. The church is open to the public and houses the Kairos collection, something that you really should go and see. This is because the collection is named after Kairos, the Greek term for a moment, and there is a relief in it depicting that mythical character in the collection. That relief is the heart and soul of the whole collection because it proves that the town was indeed founded by ancient Greeks – it dates back to the 4th century BC, almost 2500 years!
Apart from that, the collection contains many other interesting pieces, such as ecclesiastical clothing into which pure silver has been woven in, items from the Gothic and Baroque periods and much more. A great way to get a sense of just how old this town is.
The Kamerlengo Fortress
This awesome fort is quite a sight to behold when you first see it, and it used to serve to house Venice’s military personnel back in the days. The oldest part of the fort is the main tower, which dates back to the end of the 14th century, while the walls were built in the early 15th century.
What makes this place particularly interesting is the fact that it’s used today to host concerts and other cultural events. If you have the opportunity, go and catch a concert here – the ambiance will blow you away. Otherwise, you should be able to enter the fort and look around for about 25 kunas (about 3 euro) per person.
Also, you will notice what is probably the football (soccer) field with the most unique background in the world. It belongs to the local club, of course. On the other side of it, however, is another thing you should at least get close to – the tower of St. Mark which used to be connected to the fortress by a wall. It’s not open for visitors at the moment, but it’s nevertheless a great addition to your sightseeing list.
Where to eat in Trogir?
As is the case in the rest of Dalmatia, Trogir will serve you excellent Mediterranean food, and if you’re a fan of seafood, you’re definitely in the right place. I honestly believe everyone can find something for themselves here, as the following few restaurants will demonstrate.
Don Dino, Bl. Augustina Kažotića 8, 21220 Trogir
Not only is the location of this restaurant excellent, in the heart of Trogir’s old town, but Don Dino is a great example of how fine dining should look like. Owned by one of Croatia’s most famous chefs Ivan Pažanin, the place will amaze you with fantastic seafood. Octopus salad is by far my favorite, but there’s really not a single non-excellent dish here. It’s THAT good. And they have a fine selection of Croatian wines (which may surprise you with their quality if you haven’t tasted them yet). And a terrace. And… You know what? Just come here and enjoy!
P.S. Yes, they serve meat here, but fish is what the restaurant is all about.
Konoba Trs, Matije Gupca 14, 21220 Trogir
When in this part of Croatia, eating in one of “konobas” is a must. These are actually restaurants that focus more on traditional gastronomy of the region and as such represent a great way to get to know this part of the world more closely. Konoba Trs is a place I can wholeheartedly recommend, not just because of the great food they serve but because of the interior design and overall relaxed atmosphere.
Again, you have some excellent fish dishes on the menu, but I would recommend that you go for the so-called pašticada – a traditional Dalmatian roast covered in a fantastic sauce, usually served with homemade gnocchi. I tell you, you’ll love every single bite. On top of that, they have wines from all parts of Croatia, so you can (and should) try several different regions.
Just keep in mind that reservations may be required in advance here.
Barba, Ulica hrvatskih žrtava 44, 21220 Donji Seget
The term “barba” in Dalmatia is akin to “uncle” in English. And the name really fits this restaurant because everyone is so relaxed and friendly here. It’s just outside of Trogir, in Seget Donji, but there is something warm and attractive about this place that people just keep coming back for more. Yes, here too you can choose between a very fine mix of meat and fish dishes, but the portions you get are quite big and should satisfy pretty much everyone. If you’re going for the meat, go for lamb “peka”, a traditional dish of meat roasted under the bell, but call in advance to order it because it takes a few hours to make it. As for the fish, just go for the seafood platter and try a bit of everything.
Mirkec, Budislavićeva ulica 15, 221220
But if you want something simple and informal, especially if you want a good pizza, go and visit Mirkec. The food here is delicious, and their location is perhaps even better – you will be eating on Trogir Riva (lungomare), right on the seafront. Because of that, I love coming here for dinner, there’s really a nice atmosphere in the town, but it’s also a great place to stop for lunch, especially if you have kids with you. Apart from pizzas, there are plenty of other great Mediterranean dishes to try, even vegetarian and vegan options, so whatever type of food you’re looking for, you’ll get it here.
Evenings in Trogir can be quite relaxing as you’re walking along the coast, but if you’re looking for a place to party hard, there’s plenty of those, too. In short, no matter what kind of fun you need, Trogir nightlife has it.
Smokvica, for example, is a lovely little bar at the very heart of Trogir’s old town. Stopping there for a drink at night, surrounded by old stone walls that have been there for centuries is quite a magical experience. The atmosphere is relaxed, the people running the place are very friendly, and the cocktails are very good. Oh, and the bar even has its own friendly pet cat, so don’t be surprised if it jumps on a free chair next to you.
A great way to spend an evening in Trogir is to head to the town’s Riva and sit down for a nice drink as you enjoy the bustle around you and a gentle sea breeze. Cocktail Bar Padre is a good place for that, especially if you feel like dancing and partying in general. Theme parties are also common here during summer.
Another good place to visit in the old town (main square, to be exact) is Corte Bar, a nice place with excellent cocktails and service. Add to that the wonderful surrounding of the main square in the evening and nice music and you get a great place to visit at night. It’s also nice for a relaxing coffee during the day, though.
Finally, if you want to go clubbing, I suggest you head to the club called New York. It’s a bit outside of the town, but quite popular, a real bastion of Trogir nightlife, so it’s a good choice for a night-long party.
The best beaches in Trogir
There are plenty of beaches close to you if you’re in Trogir. Most people head over for a swim to the island of Čiovo which is connected to Trogir with a bridge (it’s right in front of the town), but there are plenty of other good options, too. You can rent a boat and head to Šolta, you can take the bus towards Split… the choice is yours and here are the best places to consider.
Beaches Marinova Draga and Okrug are fairly close to the old town and can even be reached on foot from there if you don’t mind the walk of about 20 minutes. If that’s not for you, a water taxi can also accommodate you. Okrug beach is actually the most popular beach around, with plenty of facilities, whereas Marinova Draga has a nice restaurant, shallow waters and is great for families with kids.
But personally, I think Medena is the best beach in/near Trogir. It’s just outside of the town, near Hotel Medena, and it’s a very big, long gravel beach with plenty of space for everyone. Numerous pines provide loads of shade, and the beach is very well equipped with numerous facilities and things to do. You can play various sports there, rent a banana boat or a jet-ski, go windsurfing and so much more. There are even playgrounds for kids here, so literally everyone can enjoy it.
You can get to Medena by car or you can set up a boat transfer or get a water taxi to take you there, plus there are many restaurants and bars around. Perfect for spending a whole day at the beach.
Finally, on the other side of Trogir, towards Split, is another good beach called Pantan. You can reach it easily if you take bus number 37 from Trogir (more on that in just a moment) and get off on the second station. The beach itself is sandy, with shallow waters surrounding it, and there are plenty of bars where you can get a coffee and refreshments. Furthermore, there are plenty of pine trees there too, so you can get yourself a nice cool spot and get away from the heat. What is particularly interesting about this beach is that it is located at the mouth of a small river called Rika, which means that the water here is actually a mixture of fresh water and the sea.
Trogir tips and tricks
So, what are the details you need to know about Trogir that will make your vacation here much easier and more pleasant?
Well, first of all, you should know that Trogir is extremely close to Split Airport. Even more so than Split, as a matter of fact. Therefore, you can actually fly here and then get a taxi or a bus to the town.
That being said, do keep in mind that huge jams occur often in the town during summer, especially on the exit towards Split. If you’re thinking of heading to Split, I would sincerely recommend keeping an eye on the situation on the road to that city. To avoid all of that, you can maybe book a boat transfer or get yourself a water taxi and get to your destination in style. Not to mention that the ride will be so much more interesting and exciting.
If you don’t have a car, you can still get to Split by taking the aforementioned bus number 37 from Trogir’s main bus station (you can find the bus’ schedule here). You can even get on a bus and then switch to a train in Kaštel Stari. These two are synced and can get you to Split relatively fast.
Finally, if you want to see another side of Dalmatia, head to the small village of Radošić, north of Trogir. It’s a lovely little place in the hinterlands, an ethno village with some great konobas in old stone houses and even better food. There’s even a zoo for domestic animals here. A great place for a day trip! Do be aware that the traffic can during rush hours can be pretty bad here, so plan accordingly.
Source: Ivana Zoric